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Have you ever been in the middle of a cornhole game and the sun starts to set? It’s the worst! You want to finish your game but it just gets too late to see the board. Well, there is now a solution! Many companies make LED lights specifically for cornhole boards. I’ve gone ahead and put several sets on and documented how to install them. It’s super simple and can be done in about 30 minutes with just a hammer and a screwdriver/drill.
Make sure you have a flat surface to place your cornhole boards face down. You’ll need to move the cornhole board set around a little as you hammer in the nails but other than that it’s pretty simple!
Step Two: Installing the Power Pack
Once you have the board filled upside down you’ll need to install the power pack in the upper right corner per the instructions for the set I picked up. Be sure that’s what the instructions say for your LED light installation. You’ll need to install the clip first by screwing it to the board and the the power pack will snap in. This pack will take three AA batteries and will last quite a while. Next, you’ll want to go ahead and installed the lights for the hole, pre-drilling the holes, and using the provided clips and screws.
Pro Tip: Pre-drill your holes to save a lot of time and frustration! Also don’t leave the batteries in the power pack while you’re not using it. Otherwise they could erode and ruin the pack.
Step Three: Installing the Lights
Once you have the power pack and lights around the hole installed, you’ll need to start installing the LED rope light. In the pack I bought it was also attached to the power pack and looped around the leg to start (you’ll see this in my video). You’ll then start hammering in the light string using the provided clip. Mine came with the nail and clip combined.
I then systematically went around the board and put in a clip and nail about every foot. I used a informal measurement of the sides to make sure my nails were in roughly the same place on each side of the board so it would look nicer. Then once I went all the way around the board I just tucked the remaining tub into the beginning part of the set.
And that’s it! It’s super simple and easy to do but you’ll get tons of extra enjoyment out of your cornhole boards. We bought our boards for about $100 and added the paint and stain ourselves (years ago) then added these lights just recently so the total cost was about $120. To buy a fully stained and lighted set, you’re looking at $230-300+ depending upon the design you want. A savings of $100+!
As a sister post to How to Pour a Concrete Sidewalk Extension, we’ve created a short video to show how to mix concrete like a pro! It’s me against the hubby, the amateur against the pro. Who will win?!?
Mixing bag concrete is simple and with just a few steps, you can feel confident in your next DIY concrete project. Check out our video to see how!
Hello friends! After a brief pause to complete our latest project, I’m back! It took us about three days to pour this concrete sidewalk extension to our shop but it took forever to edit the video and put everything together. As we move along in this journey of DIY’ing, I’m learning more and more video editing tricks so I hope you enjoy the latest video!
Before we get into all of that, I wanted to detail out what all was done for our concrete sidewalk extension. I call it a sidewalk extension because it’s angled down and is on the side of our shop where a traditional sidewalk would be flat and open on both sides. The steps are still basically the same so we wanted to share our project with you!
Here’s What You’ll Need
Concrete Mix – 80lb bags – high strength (the yellow bag)
Wood for the forms (1x6s and 2×2 stakes)
Rebar for the strength, rebar wire, rebar pliers & spacers (small rocks will do)
3 inch screws or nails – buy a box of at least 100
We actually added our forms about a year ago but it’s rather simple. You really just want to make sure you have the 1x6s level from board to board and use the 2×2 steaks outside the form to secure them. That way, when the project is finished, you’ll have a clean smooth edge facing out when you remove the forms. We did ours on the inside because the hubs doesn’t want to remove the form so it was a moot point for us.
Step Two: Inserting the Rebar
Next you’ll want to place horizontally and then do vertical bars along the top of it about every 2 feet or so. In the corners they will be more around 1 feet apart and that’s fine. It’s all for strength.
Once you have your rebar grid laid out, you’ll need to tie each piece together with rebar wire and rebar pliers. If you can’t find pliers specific for rebar wire, regular ones will do. You’ll just need to wrap the wire around the concrete just like you would wrap a tie around a bread bag. There’s not actual knot, the wire is just twisted together and then once the extra is cut off (leave about 1 inch) you’ll need to push anything that’s standing up, down so it won’t stick up out of the concrete when it’s poured.
The next thing is to go back through and add in spacers. In commercial job sites the spacers are called “chairs” and sit up about 1-2 inches off the ground. We don’t need that kind of space so I just used the rocks that we found in our gravel driveway. The goal is to make sure no part of the rebar is touching the dirt.
Step Three: Pouring the Concrete
You’ll want to take your wheelbarrow and add some water to the bottom using your hose and water nozzle, about 5 seconds worth. Remember, It’s easier to add water than it is to take it out so be conservative until you get comfortable with the process. You’ll then take your hoe (image below) and mix it together like a big batch of cake mix. Except, don’t eat this!
Pro Tip: Try very hard not to breathe in the dust that will come out when you pour the cement out of the bag. It contains lots of chemicals you don’t want in your lungs!
Mix it until all of the dry bits and pieces are gone. It takes several minutes. Add water conservatively. You’ll want it to be a nice consistency. Not too dry and not too soupy. The dryer you make it, the harder it is to compact together. The wetter you make it, the longer it will take to cure. The perfect example is to get it to look like a nice bowl of stew that’s thick but not soupy.
Once you’ve got it mixed together, you don’t want to waste any time getting it into your form. You can either shovel it into the form or tip your wheelbarrow into the form (from the outside of the form) and pour the concrete in to the form.
Step Four: Finishing the Concrete
When you have the concrete in the form, you can give it about 5-10 minutes to set-up a bit before you start to finish it, depending upon how hot or cold it is outside. The concrete should not be hard but it shouldn’t be super thin either. It should be about the consistency of peanut butter when you go to smooth it out. Use a 2×4 to get the concrete flat and then use a trowel to smooth it out. (the video gives tons of examples of how to do this!) You can also use the trowel as a bit of a small shovel to move any concrete around if you have any divots. or use a shovel if you have bigger sections that need concrete
Pro Tip: Make sure you rinse off all of your tools after each use otherwise you’ll get dried concrete on them and it will ruin the tools. The wheelbarrow rinsing can be added as part of your water for the next bag of concrete. Just don’t add too much water!
Step Five: Saw Cutting the Concrete
Once the concrete has fully cured, you’l want to saw cut. This usually is about 24 hours after it’s been poured. Now, saw cutting concrete can be intimating but it’s really not any harder than using a saw to cut wood. It’s just A LOT dustier!
To saw cut, you’ll need a grinder with a concrete blade, a 4 foot level, a piece of bright chalk and a mask. The level is to make your line straight, the chalk is to mark it and the blade…well, that’s for cutting as you can guess. 🙂 Once you have your line down you’ll want to cut evenly about 1/4 to no more than 1/2 of an inch deep from start to finish, going as evenly as you can.
Pro Tip: Don’t forget to wear the mask. The dust is filled with chemicals you don’t want in your lungs!
If you feel that it’s too much for you, you can use what’s called a joiner. A joiner would be used while the concrete is setting up, not after and it would create those lines in the concrete like you see in sidewalks down any street. Check out our video which shows exactly how do a joint and a saw cut in concrete: https://youtu.be/ut3zsDp0YbE
Both of these approaches are made to give concrete a relief point for expansion and contraction. Concrete will crack, no matter what you do, it will crack, but this will give it a controlled place to crack so you don’t have spider cracks going everywhere.
Overall Savings
Total, this project cost us about $400 as we had many of the materials needed. The majority of the spend was for the concrete as we bought over 100 (!!!) bags of concrete at the local big box store. My husband is a Superintendent for a commercial concrete company and has 20 years worth of experience…and tools, so that saved us quite a bit. If we would have hired a company to frame and pour the concrete it would have been at least $1,500 if not more so we’ve got a savings of $1,100 right off the bat.
Watch our Video on How to Pour a Concrete Sidewalk!
Have you mixed concrete before? Let me know how it went in the comments below!
Like many other people, I inherited this wicker furniture set from my mother who didn’t want them any more. She asked and I, being thrifty like I am, said “Yes!” before she finished her offer. It’s not because this was a fantastic set. Frankly it’s not my style in any way shape or form but I’m a firm believer in taking something that’s still usable and updating it to fit your style rather than just going out and buying something new. I had seen the set before and I knew it was in good shape. I didn’t tell her I was going to paint it (whoops!) but knowing her, I knew she would be all for it!
What You’ll Need
Fine grit sand paper
Spray paint
And that’s it!
Step One: Prepping the Wicker
This step is pretty easy, you really just need to sand down the furniture especially if there are previous coats of paint. This enables the wood of the wicker to accept the paint better. Another aspect of the prepping stage is to tighten up any strands that have come loose or to completely cut them off as long as they don’t compromise the integrity of the furniture or the wicker strands as a whole. The below image is after I sanded the wicker chair down.
Step Two: Painting the Wicker
Once you’ve sanded everything down, it’s now time to go ahead and paint your wicker. First, I tried painting the wicker with a brush and paint that I already had. This took FOREVER. I would not recommend it in any way shape or form because there is just no way that a paint brush can get into all the nooks and crannies. I eventually turned to spray paint in the same color and took off like a rocket! I had to do several coats yes, but what would have taken days to paint, took maybe an hour for the first coat. After it dried I flipped the chair over and spray painted it from the bottom. Then, I just went back over it with more spray paint and hit those areas that were still white. This took several passes because it would look fully covered from one angle and then you would still see the white paint through another angle.
The overall color and look is exactly what I was going for. I’m not the biggest fan of the floral print but they were free and they are still in fantastic shape so I really don’t care! The new color matches the print (at least I think so) so I’m good! You can sit on them without the cushions as well.
I’m not finished with the love seat, as it needs the bottom painted and the legs painted again but it’s to a point to where I can at least get them outside. I also have a coffee table (I know, a three piece wicket set for free!) I just haven’t gotten there yet.
At the end of the day, I had to use 7 cans of spray paint at about $5 per can. That’s around $35. Buying a whole new three piece wicker set would have been in the hundreds of dollars so either way, I’m ahead of the game!
For Mother’s Day my family bought me a small chiminea for our patio. When we got it home I noticed that the metal pieces at the top were rusting a bit as it was sitting outside at our local nursery. After a few quick steps, I was able to take care of the rust and rust proof it so that it would last much longer.
What You Will Need
Rust proofing metal spray paint
Fine grit sand paper
I went ahead and removed my metal pieces from the chiminea and in the garage I took my sand paper and started to gently sand the metal to get the current rust off of the metal. If I couldn’t get it all off, I just sanded it down to where any pieces that were sticking out were nice and smooth.
Once that was done, I took my spray paint that was made to cover metal and is good for either in door or outdoor, and started to spray. I sprayed the metal in short bursts to control the amount of spray paint that went on to the metal so I wouldn’t make the paint run. I then left it to dry for about 30 minutes and came back to check on the coverage. Spraying again the areas that needed it. I then left that to try as well and once it was finished, I placed it back on the chiminea.
Good Tip: If you are using this in an area where it might get very hot, like a chiminea, I suggest getting a high heat spray paint that can withstand the heat from the fire. It shouldn’t cost more than $10ish dollars at your local hardware or big box store.
After everything dried, I loved the overall look and really enjoyed the chiminea once it was all complete! The total cost was around $10 and would have cost much more if I tried to replace the metal, if I could have been able to find a replacement at all.
Hope you enjoyed this quick tip! Stay tuned for a short video showing you all of the steps and feel free to comment to let me know your experiences in DIY rust proofing!
Whether you have a full yard of dirt or you have just have some sports you need to fill in, laying sod isn’t something that is typically done every day or sometimes at all in the life of a homeowner. We’re here to show you how to do it yourself and save at least 50%, if not more, in installation costs! It’s not rocket science people, you can do it! And we’re here to help.
What You Will Need
Pallets of sod grass
Gloves
Sheet rock knife (aka Jab Saw)
Sprinklers (either in ground or manual ones)
When we first moved into our current house, it was a completely blank slate yard wise. Not a blade of grass to be seen. That’s because it was a brand new house and we negotiated the price down so the builder removed the landscape package to save money. Fine by me! That way I’ll know the type of grass that’s put in. Sometimes when you get those landscape packages from builders, it can be the bottom of the barrel grass. Not all the time, but sometimes. Here in Texas, grass is a luxury not a given. If you pick the wrong grass, it won’t stand up to the weather. We’ve got a great grass farm near by so we were able to chat with them about the different types.
Here in Texas, if you’re going to lay down sod, the best choice is Bermuda because it’s able to put up with such differences in weather from hot to cold from dry to wet. Texas has all of those, in abundance. In regards to the types of Bermuda grass, lets be honest, there are many different types. Those available to us are Tiff 419, Northbridge and Zoysia (Zoy-sha).
Good to Note: Different parts of the country have different types of sod grass. It’s best to check with your local grass farm to see which works best for your yard!
According to our local grass farm, Tiff 419, while a good Bermuda grass, won’t bounce back as well as the others if hit with extreme hot or cold temperatures or drought/excessive rain conditions. It will come back, but you may have grass that looks “dead” while it’s recovering.
Northbridge, which can be the same or just a little more in price than the Tiff 419 and will tolerate those extreme changes in temperatures and drought conditions a bit better. Meaning if you have a week of temperatures over 100 and you don’t water it, it will start to turn brown (as any grass would) but it won’t totally die on you and will return to it’s vigor in a quicker time. For Northbridge, and with Tiff 419 to be honest, the best bet is to make sure you water it as needed. Northbridge will also tolerate an overabundance of water as well without dying where the Tiff 419 may get waterlogged and won’t tolerate it as well.
Now to Zoysia (Zoy-sha). If you’ve ever watched the Masters golf tournament, you’ve seen Zoysia. It’s that green carpet looking grass that is green even in the winter. This is the Rolls-Royce of Bermuda grass and can cost twice as much as the Tiff 419 and Northbridge. But it’s worth it’s weight in gold, let me tell you. Zoysia can take anything you throw at it. Rain, no rain, sleet, hail, snow, hot temperatures, cold temperatures, you name it. We drive by the grass farm just about once a week as we’re coming home from our Saturday night date night and I swear to you, from January to December, you can tell where they have Zoysia planted because it is green almost all year long. It’s amazing.
What are these prices you say? Well, pricing is going to vary between every grass farmer but you should expect to pay anywhere from $125-500 per pallet depending upon the type of Bermuda grass and the size of the pallet. Pallets range from 450-500 yards per pallet.
We received quotes for a company to put the grass down for us and quotes of what it would cost to do it out selves. As you can imagine, you save A LOT of money if you can do it yourself…close to 50% if not more.
For us, we went the middle of the road and chose the Northbridge. We ended up getting 16 pallets at around $220 per pallet at 450 square feet each. They also delivered it for us for about $65. That was well worth it. We’ve since ordered several more smaller orders and we’ve never been let down! Overall the cost for the 16 pallets was about $3,500. If we would have had a company install it for us, we would have gotten less grass for more money. In this case, about only 75% of what we wanted for $7,500. It was a no brainier to do it ourselves.
Massive tip: The best time of year to lay sod is in the spring. If you lay it after that you are fighting with one hundred different things from heat, lack of or too much rain, weeds that are in it’s rampant growing stage, etc. Also, the grass itself is braced for the weather, not for cutting and the weather, so it can take a bit for it to bounce back if you lay it outside of the spring time period. This is another thing to consider when wondering which type you want to get.
Step One: What to do First
Depending upon who you ask, you may have different opinions on what should be done first to prepare your yard for laying down sod. Some may say you need to till up all of the dirt, others may say you need to add a top soil over all of it, some say to spray it to kill the weeds, some say nothing.
We had nothing but acres of weeds during our first run of putting down sod (literally acres of weeds), so we decided to rent a small tractor with a tiller and till up all of the weeds. Knowing what I know now, if you have mostly dirt with weeds, the sod pieces are so thick, you can just mow the weeds down as low as you can go and place the sod right on top and call it a day. The sod pieces are so thick (or they should be) that they will literally smother the weeds underneath and kill them. So no need for a top soil, no need for tilling or spraying. I really would not recommend killing the weeds with a weed killer spray. That will make your soil toxic and can harm the brand new sod you’ll be putting down.
Full disclosure, we are not landscape experts, we’re just do it yourself homeowners with some experience. We also hire a turf company to come out and spray the yard once a month for weed control during the summer months, then once in the fall and spring. BUT remember, let your crew know you have new grass so they can spray accordingly. Applying any type of lawn maintenance to sod that’s just been cut and laid could damage it because it might get a double dose of fertilizer. Your landscape crew, if told, should know how to handle the grass that’s less established.
Step Two: Laying Down the Sod
Once you’d prepared your base (or not) you’re ready to lay down the sod.
Steps to layout sod:
Pick up sod
Lay it on the ground
Pick up sod
Lay it on the ground
Rinse and repeat, times 100,000
Laying down sod is ridiculously easy, it’s just more laborious than anything else. Grass sod can also come in a variety of sizes from 2×4 feet pieces to 1×2 feet pieces. And I’m sure other grass farmers will cut them in different ways. The thing to know is that you can request them to be cut in a certain way. Why does this matter you say? Well, after a few pieces it doesn’t matter but after hundreds to thousands of pieces, it really really does. I have some back and stomach muscle issues so the 1×2 feet pieces are perfect for me because they are lighter and easier to manage. If you don’t have those issues, you can really knock out some square footage with the bigger pieces but know this, they will be heavy! Those 2×4 feet pieces, even when dry, will weight at least 40-45 pounds. If they’re wet, goodnight, they will been even heavier than that! The 1×2 feet pieces, even our kids were able to help which made the job even quicker. Granted I didn’t do those the first time but still, it’s good to know.
Once you start laying down your sod, you need to just keep going. Putting one end on the other. It’s not like flooring to where you have to square off and make it a perfectly straight line before you start. It’s not rocket science either. Just lay those suckers down. They will grow into each other making all of your planning for perfectness, unnecessary. The best bet is to just start at one point and keep going. If you get to a point where you need to cut your grass to make it fit, we’ve found that a sheet rock knife (aka jab saw) will do wonders for you. It takes a little elbow grease but you can cut the pieces exactly how you need them. Like butta!
The biggest tip I can give you once you are finished laying down your sod is to water, water, water! You will lose your grass quicker than anything if you do not water it right after it’s installed. Sure it’s resilient, but after it’s cut, it’s in what’s called a “trauma” stage. It’s traumatized from being cut from the ground and will pull back to protect itself. It is more susceptible to dying than ever before in this stage!!
We do not have an in-ground sprinkler system so we use the old tried and true oscillating sprinkler. It’s some work but if it keeps the grass alive, so I’m all for it. The best tip I can give you is to make sure you water your sod every day for the first week for at least 10-15 minutes in each section. Then after the first week you should be able to drop down to every other day watering. This all depends upon what time of year you put down your sod and your current weather conditions, but either way, watering should be a major element of your care, after installation.
To put down 16 pallets of grass, that were about 450 square feet each, it took us at least three full days, morning, noon, and night. We’ve picked up one pallet here and there and just a few weeks ago put six more pallets down. That took about three days as well but that was because my husband had to work and the kids had school so it was just me during the day and my husband and I at night. I forgot to tell the grass farm to cut them in smaller pieces so it was rough. But we got it finished!
UPDATE: Here is an image of the grass about 2 years later! We’ve had to water it several times as the weather got hotter but it’s been fantastic. We added a fire pit and just put grass down around it. Loving it!
I hope this helps you with your sod grass project! Please share, or leave a comment if you have any questions! We’d love to hear from you. Stay tuned for a short video showing you some fun time lapse video.
As you may know from my recent post, Wood Pallet Headboards, I am in love with wood pallets! They are cheap, easily sourced wood (meaning I can find them just about anywhere) and they hold up to the elements extremely well! Because of this feature I decided to use them for planter boxes. Now remember, I am not a carpenter nor am I a professional, these are just projects we’ve done around the house that we wanted to share.
First, I had two spots on my front porch that I knew would fit planter boxes very well. However, when I went to look to buy two, they were $45+ for one! That wasn’t going to cut it. So I had material left over from my headboard project and I decided to use it to make my own planter boxes.
Here’s what you’ll need:
Wood Pallets – either one you found or bought. You could also used shiplap too!
Skill saw & a miter saw with a wood cutting blade
Wood stakes – 2×2 (they come in 6 packs at your local big box store)
Cordless drill with appropriate bit
Screws (any kind will do but they need to be at least 1 1/2 to 2 inches long)
A nail gun would work but at the time I did this project I didn’t have one
A flat surface to put everything together
A plastic planter box – you pick the size you want as they sell tons at the big box stores. I used two different kids. The first one was a black plastic window box that measured roughly 23 inches by 8 inches and another that measured 14 by 14.
Then whatever materials you want to place inside. I choose potting soil and potato vine plants
If you don’t own the items needed to make this wood pallet planter box, there are links in the content below showing where you can purchase them.
Step One: Preparing Your Wood Pallet
Before you start any wood pallet project, I highly suggest cleaning them with either plain water to get the mud and muck off. I also suggest to use a disinfectant, especially if they have been sitting outside in the elements for a while. Any type of bleach will do or mold or mildew remover. If they are new and clean, you probably don’t need to do this.
After you’ve cleaned off your wood pallets and let them dry, you’ll need to use a skill saw to deconstruct the wood pallets. I’ve tried in the past to pull the nails out or to use a crow bar/pry bar to get them apart in one piece but honestly, the effort it takes and the damage that is done isn’t worth it so I just cut the wood pallets apart with a skill saw.
**NOTE: PLEASE BE CAREFUL DURING THIS STEP OF CUTTING**
Below is a image showing roughly where I cut between the support pieces. Sorry it’s wonky, I can’t get it to load in the right direction! Ugh, the internets.
Step Two: Cutting Your Wood
Once you have your wood pallet cut down into manageable pieces, you then need to cut them to fit your plastic planter boxes. As mentioned, I have two. The first one is a square one that measures roughly 14 inches by 14 inches wide (about 8-10 inches deep). I know that I will have my wood stakes inside the planter box for support so I need to keep that in mind when I’m putting everything together. So to my dimensions I add one more inch on each side for the stakes and for the planter boxes to be able to all fit. I choose to make these planters roughly 24 inches tall which turned out to be about 6-7 wood pallet pieces on each side, depending on the size of each piece. I then cut each wood pallet piece down to 15 inches long with my miter saw. I also cut my wood stakes to match the 24 inch height.
**NOTE: PLEASE BE CAREFUL DURING THIS STEP OF CUTTING**
I then created a level surface with saw horses and a piece of plywood that I had laying around. Once I had a flat surface, I started from the bottom up. To create the structure I used an “inside/outside” pattern. I don’t know if that’s the technical term but it works for me! This means that I ran the pieces to where they would be on the inside edge of the stake at one side and going over the stake at the other side. That way all pieces would fit together and I didn’t have to cut one side smaller than another side. I wasn’t going to try and cut 45 degree angles and make it look fancy either! But you could if you wanted. I just didn’t have the time or the patience for all that jazz.
Below is an image of things coming together by using my power drill and screws. I ended up using two screws for each wood pallet slat. One on the right end and one on the left. You could use a nail gun as well to get a cleaner look. Also, it looks like the planter is upside down in the image but it’s actually not. I use the end tips of the wood stakes to give me more room to place my planter boxes and it gives me a little gap to remove them if needed.
As you can see, the pieces don’t all match up. That’s because you’re using a free wood pallet! If you want to go to the big box store and get actual slats, they would all line up. But I love how each piece has a different texture, color and grain. I specifically selected non-matching ones during the process to get that look.
Step Three: Finishing Your Wood Pallet Planter
You’re almost done! Once you’ve screwed (or nailed) everything together you can go ahead and place your planter box inside. I added my soil and potato vines before hand and I think it came out pretty good! (I can’t remember what the other plant is but the potato vine killed it anyway so…it’s a moot point lol)
As you can see in the image below, I also made a rectangular one! The plastic planter box dimensions are roughly 23 inches long by 8 inches wide and about 6 inches deep. So since I cut my wood pallet up into more manageable sizes I had to use a row of two on the front. The front pieces were 13 inches long each and the side pieces were 9 inches each (like before I added one each to the length and width). I again made it about 24 inches tall which called for 12-14 pieces for the front and another 12-14 pieces for the back. The sides then needed 6-7 pieces for each side. Like before I used the “inside/outside” pattern so everything would line up. I had to use one more wood stake for the middle part of the front and the back too but otherwise it went together in a similar fashion as the first one with one screw being screwed into the wood stake on each end.
This was a really fun project to make and I hope you all enjoy it too! I think all in all it cost me about $30ish to make because I got the wood pallets for free. What cost me was the plastic planter boxes, the soil and the plants. If you had those items already it would be even cheaper!
Pro Tip: I use these all year round! In the fall I swap out the annual plants for very colorful fall looking fake ferns that I bought on clearance from a home decor store. Or you could use perennials that would last longer too!
Leave a comment or a question and let me know what you think!!
Note: I am an Amazon Associates member which means I get a small commission off of any sales that take place from the Amazon links that are provided.
Thrifty Mom's DIY 